Last night I watched the movie from 1971 called Big Jake, with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. Old movies rarely fascinate me, but curiosity grabbed me after my visit to Nacogdoches. Let me explain.
Nacogdoches was on our radar for a fun distraction from the daily grind. My husband drove, while I rode “shot-gun,” to Nacogdoches, three hours southeast of Dallas. The drive through tall, swaying, emerald pine trees with tiny purple flowers along the two-lane roads and highways kept me from snoring. The rolling hills and fields with red barns, cattle (including longhorns), and the robin’s egg blue sky signaled spring.
We stopped at the Visitor Center where Mike Bay explained, “Don’t miss the shops. Our town is filled with art. Since you mentioned you like glass, you must visit the Glass Castles, just down the street. You can walk to most of the historic places, but take a quick drive to Millard’s Crossing, too.”
I fell in love with the charming bookstore. The owner of The Boss Light book store, Tim Bryant, writes mysteries. With a few tables and chairs in the rear of the store for book clubs, events, and just sittin’ around talkin’ with a cup of coffee, I wandered
around the store, admiring the variety of items: the carved wooden objects, the paintings, the photographs, old books, new books, and t-shirts.
The t-shirt with a picture of The Little Prince caught my eye at the door (one of my favorite books). When I saw the t-shirt with the picture of John Wayne and his quote, “Have you been to Nacogdoches” from the movie Big Jake, it spoke to me.
We dashed through the antique stores, a few artsy retail shops, and ended at the stained-glass windows store where their artists design stained glass for castles, nationwide churches and other structures. Additionally, the store stocks amazing gift items.
Research Nacogdoches historic sites to save time. Nicole Bradford, a reporter at the Daily Sentinel, told me in advance, “If you have time, visit Millard’s Crossing; that’s one of my favorites, and take the guided tour.”
After a delectable BLT at Dollie’s Diner and a ten-minute drive, we arrived at Millard’s Crossing, where a dozen or more old structures dot the acreage with several log cabins, a church, a parsonage, and an old caboose (to indicate the influence of the railroad). We picked up the map for our self-guided walking tour.
A noisy bunch of joyful friends gathered to prepare for an upcoming wedding in the church and the Watkins House for the reception. A few of their motorcycles roared out of the driveway as we by-passed these two structures. My two favorite buildings include the Textile Museum and the Sitton House Dog Trot cabin. Many quilts in various patterns and colors hang on the walls in the museum. The Dog Trot cabin? It looks like two small cabins with a wooden walk between them. I thought it was odd that the bedroom and seating filled one small cabin with a breeze way between for the cooking and dining area in the other small cabin. Texas had more than its share of dog trot homes in the 1800s, but many disappeared with arrival of air conditioning.
Nacogdoches is home to Stephen F. Austin State University, where six Colleges provide 120 different courses of study. It claims to be the oldest town in Texas, established in 1716 when it was still part of Indian territory. Most of the structures in Millard’s Crossing are from the 1800s. Many of the buildings were moved to the location from town. Mike Bay, from the Visitors Center had suggested, “Take time to walk the gardens. You are about ten days too soon for the full-blown flowers at the Ruby M. Mize Azalea Garden but you’ll see some color. Return for the Texas Blueberry Festival on June. 9 for everything blueberry, lots of festivities, plus music and even a pet parade.”
Nacogdoches offers the same opportunity as John Wayne when he asked his question in the movie about Nacogdoches. He diverted the enemy’s attention from his struggle. When I wear my t-shirt which says, “Have you been to Nacogdoches,” I hope to divert you with, “Y’all better visit that cool town soon,” with a John Wayne attitude and voice. It’s a great getaway.